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Angel topo
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Angel is one of the most popular routes on Castle
Rock. It is uncertain why this route was named Angel,
though. Perhaps the first ascent party believed they
were ascending to heaven. In later years, the initial
thin crack would conjure images of a far different
place among many local climbers. The first ascent of
the dreaded Angel Crack was more than amply aided.
Then Fred Beckey free climbed the initial crack,
rated it 5.8, and all hell ensued. A later guidebook
downrated the route to 5.7, supposedly justified
because Angel Crack itself was merely a boulder
problem, not really part of the Angel route proper.
A picture of Beckey leading Angel Crack in his mountain
boots hung in a Seattle sporting goods store and inspired
a great amount of wonder and envy among cadres of climbers
who had tried but failed to free the crack. All kinds
of excuses were made by bedeviled climbers: erosion
had added a whole move to the crack; hobnailed boots
had worn down the best footholds; repeated nailing
had damaged the crack; the crack was greasy because
it was climbed too much. Scores of climbers could not
free-climb Angel Crack, and epic attempts are legion.
Shoulder stands, lassos, and running starts aside,
many climbers simply gave up and either aided the crack
or climbed Midway instead. Still, Angel Crack remained
one of the most-tried pitches on Castle Rock, and was for
many years undoubtedly the hardest 5.7 pitch in the world.
Of course, the initial crack is 5.10, not 5.7, and is a
bit high for a boulder problem. Most leaders put in a piece
or two while climbing the crack. Once you get past the
first 20 feet of this route, it becomes a bit more realistic.
A wide crack is menacing, but can be passed via big,
reachy face moves to gain the first belay. Unfortunately,
many a successful leader of Angel Crack has, in his moment
of glory, been denied, forced to rappel off because his
second could not follow. Once above the first pitch, the
route is comparatively a piece of cake. A long, exposed,
meandering face pitch ends at a fine, exposed ledge after
an interesting, short 5.7 dihedral, the "crux" of the route.
Above this, the climbing is very exposed but easier,
following slabby crack systems along a broad arete all
the way to the top, a fine reward for your labors on Angel
Crack. This isn't heaven, but on a sunny fall afternoon, with
a light breeze blowing, it's close enough.
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First Ascent:
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Jim Henry, Pete Schoening, c. 1956.
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First Free Ascent:
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Fred Beckey, Don Gordon, c. 1958.
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Rack:
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A medium rack of chocks and cams to 2 inches
and several quick draws should suffice.
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Guidebook References:
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Rock Climbing Washington (Falcon Publishing 1999)
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