Russ Erickson gives the Beta, Smith Rock, 1986.

Russ Erickson gives “the Beta” to Todd Skinner. Russ, like all dirtbag climbers, slept in his car, ate handfuls of granola for breakfast, then got up and went climbing without changing clothes. Todd paid Russ a visit one morning to talk about some route, I forget which, and Russ gave him the Beta, pantomiming the moves from his sleeping bag, right out the window of his car.