The Route Info page is devoted to Washington climbing route information, including new routes, variations, corrections reported from the field, web pages and guidebooks reporting route information, and other sources of route information. Climbers are encouraged to submit route information, trip reports, corrections, and other route information so this page can be kept as current as possible. Please see the contact info page for more information.

Index	Darrington	Mount Erie	North Bend	Fossil Rock	Beacon Rock
Leavenworth	Vantage	Tieton	Spokane	Mazama	Misc. Crags
North Cascades	Central Cascades	South Cascades	Olympics	Volcanoes

Index

• Clint Cummins has scanned his old Index guidebook, a great resource for looking up old, obscure routes and with good topos of all routes done through 1993 or so. (8/3/2001)
• I have it on good authority that the bolts on the Town Crier route are "totally fine now", so please disregard the previous update. Of course, just because somebody says the bolts are fine doesn't mean you can completely trust them. (4/12/2001)
• Some controversy about Cunning Stunt (5.10d) ***, a popular climb in The Country area. This route was recently retrobolted with permission of the first-ascent party, but nevertheless was chopped last summer. After retrobolting and cleaning, the route became very popular; it may still be led on gear without the bolts. Hopefully this won't degenerate into a bolt war. (11/16/2000)
• Skinhead Upstart (12b) ** is a previously unreported variation of City Park, climbing the bolt ladder and first 20 feet of the crack, then traversing left to the Bat Skins anchors. Kind of fun. Mostly thin wireds and cams, a #2.0 Friend fits in, too. (11/01/2000)

Darrington

• Information about climbing in Darrington can be found at Matt Perkins' web page - http://www.seanet.com/~mattp/Darr/. Matt has updated his page with great photos and topos of some of the best routes on Washington granite.
• The topo for Silent Running on page 95 of Rock Climbing Washington is outdated and inaccurate. A more accurate topo can be found on Matt Perkins' web page. According to Matt, the "meathooks" on this route reported previously by Micah Lauer are gone. The route is now said to be "a great route for the aspirant trad/slab leader" with some runouts that will "grow hair on your chest." Everything over 5.7 is reportedly well protected, with chain anchors. (5/4/01)
• A new route, Total Soul (III, 5.10b) **, climbs an 8-pitch line near the old Rubber Soul route. Matt Perkins' Darrington web page has a topo and photo. It looks like a great route. (11/12/00)
• The slab routes shown in the topo on page 98 are not quite right. There are three routes. Twentieth Century Clock (5.10a A2) is on the left, climbing a bolted slab to anchors, followed by aid through the overhangs. Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect (5.9) climbs the middle bolted slab to the same anchors. Under the Bored Walk, aka Zero Down (5.7) climbs the bolt line on the right. The Traveler's Guide shows that Charlie Chan can be linked with Bored Walk. (11/12/00)
• Another new route, Till Broad Daylight (5.9) ***, climbs the line between Bored Walk and The Kone, joining The Kone at its second anchors and midway up the fourth pitch. It has new anchors below the bush shown on page 97 of Rock Climbing Washington. (11/12/00)
• The topo for Dreamer and Safe Sex on page 107 of Rock Climbing Washington is also outdated and inaccurate. Matt Perkins' Darrington web page also has a very detailed topo of these routes and the Urban Bypass (5.10b) variation. (11/12/00)
• The Jinx (5.9) * has been cleaned up, retrobolted, and extended. (11/01/2000)
• The Northwest Passage (10a) ** route is misidentified on page 97 of Rock Climbing Washington. It is the route to the left, starting with a crack. The route wrongly identified is a one-pitch 10c. (11/01/2000)

Mount Erie

• Nothing, sorry!

North Bend

• Thanks to Sean Courage for providing a topo and action photos (Smokey Bent Me Over (5.11a) Pay To Play (5.10d) ) of Fee Demo Wall, a granite slab a mile up Middle Fork Trail. Routes by Andreas Schmidt, Colin Haley, and Sean Courage, fall 2002. (Photos by Andreas Schmidt - thanks! (6/12/2003)
• According to the DNR, the new trailhead parking lot and connecting trail to Little Si will be open by Spring 2002. The new trailhead will be located just off of Mt. Si road, a little past the existing parking area, on the left. Once the new trail is open, the old parking lot will be closed, and climbers should no longer use the private road to access Little Si. (08/02/2001)
• Thanks to Matt Robertson for mentioning a new web guide to Exit 38 (www.deceptioncrags.com), a very nice site listing the many routes there and providing great graphics. Devotees of North Bend sport climbing and newcomers alike will appreciate this site. (08/01/2001)
• Little Si has been in the news with Erik Kubiak’s ascent of Whore of Babylon (5.14b) (I think it’s the seam linking the first part of Aborigine with Porn Star (another of Erik’s new routes). To read more, link to Climbing Online and Five Ten websites. (11/21/2000)
• A new route up the North Pillar of Mount Si was climbed by Martin Volken and partner in 1999. It has 12 pitches, ranging from 5.7 to 5.10+, on rock described as running the gamut from very good to blocky and loose. The route was climbed in traditional style, from the ground up with no fixed protection used. Grade IV, 5.10+. (Note: Route details will not follow because the DNR does not want route information publicised for routes outside of the Little Si crags. I'll respect that. Climbing outside of Little Si is not illegal, but is discouraged for conservation reasons. Perhaps if we all followed Martin's lead and climbed routes in traditional style without bolts, this wouldn't be a problem.) (11/16/2000)

Fossil Rock

• The Fossil Rock topos and map in Rock Climbing Washington (pages 186-190) are courtesy of Marlene Ford. I copied them from Marlene and Jim Yoder's Fossil Rock guide, with permission (or so I believed), but neglected to give credit where credit was due. This credit is supposed to show up in the next reprint, but until then, here it is. Thanks, Marlene and Jim!

Beacon Rock

• Click here for Beacon Rock State Park information. (08/02/2001)
• The USGS/Cascade Volcano Observatory web site includes this climb a volcano page about hiking up the Beacon Rock trail. Not much about actually climbing on Beacon Rock, though.

Leavenworth

• Viktor Kramar and Dave Bale have developed a new crag in the Icicle Creek Canyon. Dubbed "Pearly Gates," this crag features mostly crack routes in the 5.6-5.11+ range, many around 5.9, with good anchors. At Viktor's invitation, several other climbers have visited, cleaning up the crag and adding additional routes. The rock is white granite reminiscent of Donner Summit, said to be some of the best rock in the Icicle. To get there, hike up Snow Creek Trail to the first switchback, where a faint climbers' trail leads across the creek and follows cairns up the hill to the crag; about 30 minutes to approach. For information about particular routes, click here. (08/08/01)
• Jeremy Larson reports that the fixed pin on the last pitch of the Careno Crag Regular Route (5.10b) is gone. The pin ripped out during a short fall, resulting in a 40-footer. However, recent reports indicate the pitch is not too runout without the pin. (11/27/2000, updated 7/24/2001)
• The route reported as Lou's Jam in Kramar's Leavenworth guide is Creek Crack (5.10a), climbed by Mike Jakubal in 1982. There are a bunch of other insignificant routes that were cleaned and climbed up on the boulders there back in the early 80s. On the boulder just up from the real Rat Creek Boulder, on the slabby face above the creek, are two routes, a 5.10a slab leading to a groove up the middle of the face, and a 5.8 groove on the right side. They are probably dirty now. (Viktor, if you want the names of these for your next guidebook, let me know.) (11/02/2000)
• The Flake Route (5.7) on Domestic Dome was climbed by Chris Gentry and Jeff Smoot circa 1980, approaching via the unprotected 5.7+ slab shown on page 256 of Rock Climbing Washington. We certainly did not make the first ascent of the flake. (11/02/2000)
• Tumwater Tower - Rock Climbing Washington topo on page 231 shows the route starting with a chimney. That is a different route. The standard route starts from the notch and traverses the big blocks. Thanks to my editors at Falcon for screwing that one up! (11/01/2000)

Vantage

• There is supposed to be a new guide to Vantage coming out soon. It was expected in June, then July, now August . . . (08/01/2001)
• A Department of Fish and Wildlife decal is required for parking at Frenchman Coulee climbing areas, where posted. According to the Frenchman Coulee Climbers Coalition web site, you can buy the decal at the Colonial Store in George, Washington. You can probably also get it at any place where hunting and fishing licenses are sold. The cost is $10, which is a lot cheaper than the $66 ticket that you get if you don't have one. Click here for more information. (08/01/2001)
• Information about new routes at Vantage can be found at Bill Robins' web site, http://users.owt.com/wrobins/.
• Red M&Ms was misreported as 5.11b in Rock Climbing Washington. It's 5.11d. Some people swear it is 5.12a. Maybe before it was bolted! (11/01/2000)
• Tangled Up in Blue was misreported as 5.10c. It's 5.9. Somebody gave me bad beta. So if you thought you cruised a 10c, sorry. (11/01/2000)

Tieton

• A Washington Fish & Wildlife decal is required for parking at Oak Creek. The decal costs $10, and is available at most sporting goods stores and wherever hunting and fishing licenses are sold. If you don't have one, you risk a $66 ticket. Click here for more information. (08/02/2001)

Spokane

• Click here to check out Jim Speaker's online guide to Spokane rock climbing. Only 15 routes at Minnehaha and Tum Tum are covered. Jim's print guide, Spokane Rock Climbs, has beta on all the Minnehaha boulder problems.
• Marty Bland has a new guide out, "Inland Northwest Rock Climbs," covering a reported 600 routes and boulder problems in the Spokane area. It's in most climbing shops. Looking through the guide, and knowing just a little bit about the area and rock over there (expecially the limestone), it looks like Spokane has a lot of the best sport climbing in Washington. (08/01/2001)

Mazama

• Bryan Burdo is said to be soon to publish a guide to all of his new creations at Mazama. From what I've heard, Bryan is going to turn Mazama into a sport-climbing destination. It has also been rumored that Bryan is coming out with a new, all-inclusive guide to North Bend sport climbing areas. Hopefully he will do that, since the Exit 32 guide is woefully outdated (unless he updated it and I just haven't seen it, which is possible). (08/01/2001)

Miscellaneous Crags

• A Washington Fish & Wildlife decal is required for parking at Banks Lake and Potholes, as well as several other climbing areas in the state that happen to be on Fish & Wildlife land. The decal costs $10, and is available at most sporting goods stores and wherever hunting and fishing licenses are sold. If you don't have one, you risk a $66 ticket. Click here for more information, including a complete list of all locations where the decal is required. (08/02/2001)
• Information about climbing in the Walla Walla area can be found on Kevin Pogue's web site, http://people.whitman.edu/~pogue/climbing_areas.html.
• From The Cougar Adventurer (9/29/00 edition) - Granite Point
  Granite Point, sometimes referred to around [WSU] campus as "The Rock", is only about 40 minutes out of Pullman, on the Snake River. For the small area that it is, it offers quite an extent of climbing levels ranging from 5.6-5.13a. All of the routes are top-roped or bolted so no pro is necessary, but be sure to carry plenty of webbing. The Rock is also a popular place to hang out, swim, and cliff jump on hot days.
  To Get There: Head out of Pullman like you're going to Colfax and take a left on Wawawi Rd. Cross HWY 195 and stay on Wawawi Rd. until you reach the river where the road changes names. Granite Point will be on your right. It is the only piece of granite along this section of river and is hard to miss. (12/04/2000)
• Thanks to Micah Lauer for providing a topo of Granite Point. There is a photo posted on Kevin Pogue's web site. (7/24/2001)

North Cascades

• Jens Klubberud reports a new route up the NE Face of Mount Formidable. This mixed route was established on July 20, 2002 by Jens Klubberud and Loren Campbell. The route ascends the Formidable Glacier to the base of the NE Face, then leads up and through a right-facing cleft (where a hidden ice pitch was encountered) and then tops out about 60 feet north of the summit on the North Ridge. The route was climbed in 10 rock pitches and one ice pitch from the top of the glacier. Grade III+; 5.6; ice pitch of 50+ degrees. Photos and a topo of the ascent can be found at Loren's website, www.cascadeclimber.com. (7/27/2002)
• Jens Klubberud reports a new route up the "back side" of Nooksack Tower. The route was climbed by Jens Klubberud and Ben Manfredi on July 24, 2001. The route was approached by gaining the ridge that seperates the Price glacier from the East Nooksack glacier. Down climbing and rappeling was used to gain the east Nooksack glacier. Considerable ice climbing was required through icefalls and crevasses on the East Nooksack Glacier to gain the rock route which is up the center of the steep south face of Nooksack Tower. The route was done in 12 sustained pitches with a 200 foot rope and some simul-climbing, but would be about 13-15 pitches for a standard rope. The rock encountered was extremely friable and offered very limited protection opportunities. The route was rated Grade V, 5.10-, with snow/ice to 55 degrees. Helmets required. The party descended the "front side" of the Tower via the standard North Side Route. Jens reports that the new route could also be approached via Nooksack Cirque. (7/30/2001)
• Robert Meshew reports that the East Face of Gunsight Peak has seen some significant rockfall. The once solid and clean face is now very shattered and the route is changed dramatically. Key pitches are reportedly missing. (7/24/2001)
• Robert Meshew reports a possible new Grade III, 5.9 route via the South Ridge of Snowdome Peak. Snowdome Peak is located above the Dome Glacier aproximately 1/4 mile north of Dome Peak. The climb begins in the col between Flat Top and Snowdome Peak (Snowdome is on climber's left from the flats of Dome Glacier). The 8-pitch route is said to be on excellent granite. Here's a pitch-by-pitch description: Pitch1: Proceed over the gendarme/tower in col (5.5). Pitch2: Climb up short ramp and left avoiding obvious clean offwidth (this looks good but needs big gear to protect); proceed to the left of the crest and then back on crest after some difficult moves and top out on a small gendarme (5.8). Pitch 3: Proceed out onto the face (left of crest) into a central crack system; climb the crack up the face and then move right back onto crest under roof (5.7); "Maybe the coolest pitch with awesome exposure and views out to Glacier peak, Hydromatic Spire and Dome Glacier." Pitch 4: The crux pitch; climb obvious splitter hand crack left of ridge crest up and over lip; proceed along left side of ridge encountering a solid, exposed finger crack system which is followed up onto a face/ramp; complete the pitch by following ramp to a belay (5.9). Pitch 5: Climb ridge crest up and down into a notch via exposed downclimbing or possible rappel from horn (5.7). Pitch 6: Climb the ridge crest and slightly right to avoid overhangs and difficulties (5.5). Pitches 7, 8: Climb on the exposed ridge crest and enjoy the view on sold and moderate climbing to the summit (5.4). To descend: Proceed north on Class 3 ledges until able to proceed no further. You should be looking across at Overdrive Tower. From here look down and right (east) and you will see a rappel that will take you to a col. From the col head north and proceed down (west) a third-class gully to Dome Glacier. There is some loose debris in the gully so either stay close on the descent or go one at a time. (7/24/2001)
• A new route up the SW Face of the NW Peak of White Chuck Mountain was climbed by Doug Weaver, Ben Flekes, and partner in August 1993. The route follows Class 3 ramps and gullies and two pitches of steep Class 5 rock (up to 5.4). It is said to be a good route on mostly sound rock. Topo to follow. Grade II, 5.4. (11/16/2000)
• This past summer, Robert Meshew and Jesse Fisher made what is believed to be the second complete traverse over Nooksack Tower and Nooksack Ridge to Mount Shuksan. They reported mostly Class 4 and mid-5 rock climbing on poor quality rock, "some of the worst I have seen in the Cascades" according to Meshew. Photos of their climb are posted at http://www.alpinezone.50megs.com/. They considered the ridge to be Grade III+ by itself, with a couple of sections of "Beckey Class 4" up to 5.8+. (11/16/2000)
• Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack Route (V, 5.10c C3) ****
  Rock Climbing Washington, page 436 - The gear list should include hooks. (11/01/2000)

Central Cascades

• A possible new route up the West Face of Lichtenberg Mountain is reported by Ray Bourbon. The route climbs five pitches, starting at the base of a grassy gully then up a blocky 5.7 overhang to ramps to a belay with a large "tombstone" block, then up a 3" crack to a stance, then 5.8+ face climbing with "awkward pinching" to a grassy ledge, then up a 5.9+ finger crack and left up ramps to a 25-foot pillar with a 4" crack on the left, then up the pillar to a finger crack, then left up a ramp to a wide crack with a "wild flake", then up cracks and the ridge to the top. A topo was provided by Ray. Approach is 3-4 miles via Smithbrook Trail. Grade II+, 5.9+. There is said to be potential for other routes on this wall. (08/27/2001)
• A likely new variation to the NW Face of the Lower West Ridge of Mount Stuart was climbed during the summer of 1996 by Ray Borbon and Rush Twilley. The route begins about 100 meters north of the route reported in Beckey's guide, and may join that route after about four pitches. It begins about 50 feet left of a long, narrow gully, starting with a low-angle crack (mid-Class 5) angling left leading 75 feet to a belay on a large ledge, then continues up Class 4-5 rock left of the gully, through a 15-foot squeeze chimney (5.5) to a good stance, then a hand crack (5.6-7), angling right at the end to a small ledge belay. The third pitch climbs thin cracks (5.7-8 right off the ledge) for about 75 feet then moves into the gully for a belay when the going gets difficult above. From the gully, the route continues up exposed, loose, but easier rock to gain a large ramp system, which leads two more pitches to the west ridge. Grade III, 5.8. (11/16/2000)
• A traverse of all five peaks of Lemah Mountain was made by Martin Volken and partner in 1998, beginning from the Lemah-Chimney Col and climbing southward along the ridge crest all the way to Chikamin Lake. The original traverse began from a base camp at the Chimney-Overcoat Col and climbed down snow and ice remnants into Iceberg Lake basin, then up loose slabby rock to the col, and looped back via Iceberg Lake. It took 15 hours for the complete traverse from camp and back, with about 8 hours of technical climbing along the actual traverse of Lemah Mountain. The route is reported as continuously Class 4 and easy Class 5, very alpine in character, with some loose rock. Grade IV, 5.4. (11/16/2000)

South Cascades

• Effective July 1999, visitors climbing above 7,000 feet elevation in the Mount Adams Wilderness (which means anywhere high up on Mount Adams) are required to purchase and display a Cascades Volcano Pass. The pass costs $10 for a mid-week climb, $15 for a weekend climb, and $30 for an annual pass good for multiple ascents of Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens. The pass is available at the Mount Adams Ranger Station, and the South Climb, Killen Creek and Divide Camp trailheads, and online at at http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/. For more information, contact Cascade Volcano Pass, Mt. Adams Ranger District, 2455 Hwy 141, Trout Lake, WA 98650, 509-395-2501. (08/01/2001)
• Dan Harris reports that access to the Bird Creek Meadow trailhead and Mazama Glacier on Mount Adams is restricted to the time period July 1 to October 1. Another reason why it is a good idea to call the ranger station ahead of time to check current access and conditions. (7/24/2001)

Olympics

• There is a small sandstone sport crag up the Elwah with routes in the 5.7 to 5.12 range, mostly 5.10 and up. The folks at Olympic Mountaineering might tell you how to get there, and even give you a topo guide, if they like you.

Cascade Volcanoes

• Effective July 1999, visitors climbing above 7,000 feet elevation in the Mount Adams Wilderness (which means anywhere high up on Mount Adams) are required to purchase and display a Cascades Volcano Pass. The pass costs $10 for a mid-week climb, $15 for a weekend climb, and $30 for an annual pass good for multiple ascents of Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens. The pass is available at the Mount Adams Ranger Station, and the South Climb, Killen Creek and Divide Camp trailheads, and online at at http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/. For more information, contact Cascade Volcano Pass, Mt. Adams Ranger District, 2455 Hwy 141, Trout Lake, WA 98650, 509-395-2501. (08/01/2001)