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URBAN CRAGGER - SEATTLE by Jeff Smoot |
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| The Fremont Troll. |
I wrote a brief article for Rock & Ice magazine's urban cragger department, about climbing and other things to do in and around Seattle. The article was published in the April 2001 issue of R&I. I was contractually obliged to give R&I an exclusive for three months from the date of publication. That three months is over, so I am publishing the article here. I have "improved" on the original article by including the original text, plus adding some better photos and links. If you're just visiting, or even if you live around here, you should find something here you've never done before.
The first day of spring dawns sunny and clear, a rare treat. I step outside, on my way to work, and pause. There's something in the air that reminds me of those bygone days when a job was something to quit because a buddy called and said "Let's go to Joshua Tree." Hell, I quit one job to spend a weekend climbing in Leavenworth. Now neck deep in mortgage payments, supporting a family, and entrenched in a career, I should resist these impulses, but I can't. I go back inside and pick up the phone.
"Hi, this is Jeff. I'm not feeling well today. I will. Thanks."
A grin breaks over my face. I feel like a kid again, finally able to go outside and play. My wife gives me that look (you know the one), but today I am immune. I make a few calls to see who can join me, but no luck. All of my climbing friends are gainfully employed. Everybody has an excuse. A meeting. A big project. A kid to pick up from daycare. Either on the phone or away from their desks. Working long hours for promotions and stock options. It seems that somewhere in the past decade our laid-back city joined the rat race. What were we thinking?
Mark calls back a few minutes later with good news. He can sneak out early. We make plans to hit Little Si in the afternoon. He'll meet me at the UW rock at 3, and we'll be clipping bolts by 4. I can't sit around all day waiting, so I grab a rope and some quick draws, rock shoes and chalk bag, and hit the road. First stop is the Marymoor climbing rock. This brick-and-mortar affair is the most popular fake rock in town. It's high and hard enough to get a little pump. On evenings and weekends, it is literally tied up by dozens of climbers, mostly gym-Bobs and Microsofties. But this morning, I find only a few climbers here. A couple of Microsoft programmers are taking their time getting to work. They let me sponge a TR on a problem they've been working.
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| Bouldering at the UW rock. |
Just before lunchtime the crowd starts growing. In conversation, I find out most of these people have only climbed indoors before. They think this counts as "real climbing" because it's outdoors. Amused, I move on to the UW rock. When I had an apartment in the city, I used to ride my bike here every night after work and stay until long after dark. The rock was the hub of Seattle climbing back then, before the climbing gyms. Now everybody hangs indoors, pumping plastic. I guess that's better than sitting around moping during our rainy winters, but it has fragmented the local scene. The sound of gravel crunching underfoot is sweet music. I hurriedly lace up my old Sportivas, tiptoe up to the "rock", and start pulling on familiar holds. There are a dozen other climbers here, mostly students. A trio of truants, variously tattooed and pierced, is hanging out. One is climbing; the others are pelting him with pea gravel. He spits on them; they spit back. I ignore them, but eventually see them working on an old classic, a contrivance they think they've just made up. I know better, and stand quietly by for several minutes before they have all given up, then flip them a casual "Mind if I try?" and cruise the problem. They can't let the "old guy" show them up, and lead me to a long, contrived traverse with absurd reaches. "Let's see you do this," they say. I decline, but they taunt me. Peer pressure clouds my judgment, and I give it a try. By the time Mark shows up, I'm trashed.
"Later, old dude," my new friends say. "You'll get it next time."
We whiz out to North Bend and hike up to the crags. Mark has a 5.12 in mind. Too rich for my blood. We start with a 5.9, then a 10b, then an 11a, working our way to the big wall and Mark's project. Perfectly pumped, I am happy to sit this one out. I belay dutifully while Mark climbs. He sticks the first crux, but blows it just below the anchors. He's pissed, but I remind him that it's only the first day of spring.
"You can come back this weekend," I promise. It seems like a safe bet. The sky is clear and blue. But on the drive home, we see dark clouds scudding in from the west. Rain starts to fall before we're back in town. By the time Mark drops me off at the UW rock, it's really coming down.
"So much for climbing this weekend," he scowls.
"Hey, it's Seattle," I say. "What did you expect?"
Some of the state's best sport climbing just a half hour from downtown. A few moderates, mostly hard stuff on juggy, overhanging "rhino" rock. World Wall I has the state's hardest sport routes, mostly 5.11 to 5.14. Take I-90 east to North Bend/Exit 32, head north on 436th to SE North Bend Way, take a left, then the first right onto Mt. Si road. The parking lot is on the left, just across the bridge. Don't park on the road! Hike up the private road to the trailhead, then follow the trail, staying left at the fork, to the crags.
B. Exit 38More sport climbing. Chossier than Little Si, although a couple of cliffs, Amazonia and Nevermind, are decent, with lots of 5.10s and 5.11s to choose from. Take I-90 to Exit 38, then park and hike up to the crags.
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| Godzilla (5.9), Index Town Walls. |
The best granite climbing in the state. Many single- and multi-pitch crack and face routes, mostly 5.10-5.12, and a few big wall-style aid routes. Drive Hwy. 522 to Monroe, then follow US Hwy. 2 east to the Index turnoff and a mile into town. Take a left at the Bush House Inn and continue another crooked mile or so to the parking lot below the Lower Town Wall. The trail to the Upper Town Wall begins here.
D. DarringtonA slab-climber's paradise located just 90 minutes or so (not counting approach hike) from Seattle. Dozens of multi-pitch friction climbs from 5.6 to 5.11 on knobby weathered granite. Drive I-5 north to Exit 208, then head east on Hwy. 530 to Darrington.
E. Mount ErieInteresting, accessible, mostly small cliffs with easy-to-moderate trad and sport routes, and great views. About 90 minutes from downtown. Drive north on I-90 to Mt. Vernon, then head west on Hwy. 20 to Anacortes. Hang a left at the first intersection, then left again on Hart Lake Road to the park entrance. A paved road leads to the summit. The gate is locked at dusk.
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| Kevon Shea on Bo Derek (5.10b), Givler's Dome, Icicle Creek Canyon. |
The hub of Washington rock climbing. Hundreds of single- and multi-pitch routes and boulder problems on rough, featured granite within a few minutes' drive of this faux-Bavarian Village. Just over two hours from downtown Seattle. Drive Hwy. 522 to Monroe, then follow US Hwy. 2 east some 86 miles into town, or east on I-90 then north on Hwy. 97 to connect with Hwy. 2 just east of town.
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| Andy Fitz on Throbbing Gristle (5.9), Sunshine Wall, Vantage. |
Desert climbing on chunky basalt. Hundreds of one-pitch routes from easy to extreme. Lots of cracks, chimneys, and sport climbs. Usually reliable weather makes it worth the 2˝-hour drive, especially when it's raining everywhere else. Watch out for falling rock, and rattlesnakes. Follow I-90 east across the Columbia River, then take Exit 143, turn left on Silica Road, then left again on the Old Vantage Highway.
H. Schurman RockReputedly the first man-made climbing wall in the US. Fred Beckey learned how to climb here. A fun place to boulder for about 15 minutes. Follow the West Seattle Freeway to the first stoplight, then turn left and head up the hill on 35th to Camp William G. Long, on the left.
I. University of Washington Practice RockThe UW Rock is the best of Seattle's fake rocks. Some of the best, hardest, and most contrived bouldering in the state. Definitely the best place to learn jamming technique. Located just south of Husky Stadium on the University of Washington campus. Technically off limits to all but students, staff and alums, but . . .
J. Marymoor Park Climbing RockThe biggest fake rock in town, next to the REI pinnacle. Chronically overcrowded; steer clear on weekends and evenings. Take Hwy. 520 across the floating bridge and down the hill into Redmond, then follow the signs to Marymoor Park.
Ice ClimbingIt doesn't freeze up very often, but when it does, there are several waterfalls in the Index and Snoqualmie Pass areas that get traffic. The best ice is in Leavenworth and at Banks Lake. There is no current guide, but an ice guide is reportedly in the works. If it doesn't freeze all winter, there's always Canada . . .
Climbing GymsSome say indoor climbing gyms were born of necessity in rainy Seattle. There are two gyms in town, the original Vertical World (206-283-4497) and upstart Stone Gardens (206-781-9828). There are also gyms in Redmond, Everett and Tacoma. REI's Flagship Store has a 60-foot freestanding pinnacle; the Redmond store has a smaller version. Both are very popular, and usually crowded.
Perennial contestant for the title of best burgers, fries, and milkshakes in town. Many locations. Dick's on Broadway definitely rules in the people-watching category.
Ivar's Fish BarThe best fish 'n chips in town. Protect your food from marauding seagulls. Pier 54; 206-624-6852.
Cafe FloraAward winning vegetarian restaurant, with patio dining. 2901 East Madison; 206-325-1900.
Flying FishSeafood bistro, with a Pacific Northwest flair. 2234 First Avenue; 206-728-8595.
Mama's Mexican KitchenTrendy food and ambiance, and they deliver. 2234 Second Avenue; 206-728-6262.
13 CoinsThe city's most popular late-night hangout. Open 24-hours, free parking. 125 Boren Avenue North; 206-682-2004.
Copacobana CafeSouth American food, outdoor dining at Pike Place Market. 1520˝ Pike Place; 206-622-6359.
Red Mill BurgersMy friends rave about this place. 312 North 67th; 206-783-6362.
Redhook BreweryGood food, great beer. 14300 NE 145th Street, Woodinville; 425-483-3232.
Kells Irish Restaurant & PubA real Irish pub. Single-malt heaven. 1916 Post Alley; 206-728-1916.
Space Needle RestaurantExpensive and overrated, but its revolving restaurant high above the city definitely has supreme views. Make reservations, and even then be prepared to wait. 206-433-5832.
Site of the 1962 World's Fair, home of the Space Needle, and still the city's cultural, sports, and amusement center.
Pike Place MarketThe country's oldest continuously operating farmers' market. Famed for its fresh fish and produce and arts and crafts. Overflowing with tourists and other local wildlife.
WaterfrontJust down the stairs from Pike Place Market. Stroll along Alaskan Way, buy trinkets and postcards. Stop at Ye Olde Curiosity Shop to see mummies, shrunken heads, and other weird stuff. Pier 54, 1001 Alaskan Way; 206-682-5844.
Pioneer SquareOld Seattle. Lots of great restaurants and pubs, and a thriving club scene. Take the famed Underground Tour, or get drunk and stagger around with frat boys and other derelicts.
BroadwayCan you say diversity? Every age, race, religion and sexual orientation is visibly represented along this street. There are some cool stores and restaurants here, too.
FremontAccording to the local tourist guide, this is the "undisputed epicenter of funkiness in Seattle." Absolutely! Lots of funky shops and restaurants. Get your picture taken with the Fremont Troll or a statue of Lenin.
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| Climbing on the REI Pinnacle. |
Mecca of outdoor retail excess. The 60-foot freestanding pinnacle is said to be the second-most-popular tourist stop in town. 222 Yale Avenue North; 206-223-1944.
GameworksVideo game heaven. A great rainy-day hangout. If you pick the right games, you can get quite a workout. 7th & Pike; 1-888-880-4263.
Jimi Hendrix's GravePeople come from all over the world to visit this local rock legend's grave, at Greenwood Cemetery in Renton, just south of town. The graves of Bruce and Brandon Lee, at Lake View Cemetery on Capitol Hill, are also a often visited.