This page is a supplement to the North Cascades section of Climbing Washington's Mountains
, including peaks 1 through 20 in the guide (Mount Baker through Bonanza Peak).
NORTH CASCADES
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Mount Baker from Heliotrope Ridge
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1. MOUNT BAKER
Coleman Glacier
LINK:
Route Guide and Photos.
LINK:
Route Guide, Trip Report, and Links.
LINK:
Ski Mountaineering Trip Photos.
Easton Glacier
LINK:
Easton Glacier Summit Day Photos.
LINK:
Ski Mountaineering Trip Photos.
North Ridge
The
North Ridge route is one of the classic mountaineering routes in the North Cascades. The route is fairly straigtforward. Just cross the glacier, climb the ridge, get past the ice cliff, and summit. Sound easy? Read the trip reports.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's
North Ridge Trip Report.
LINK:
Eric Hoffman's North Ridge Trip Report.
LINK:
Phil's Trip Report.
LINK:
Phil's Other Trip Report.
Other Mount Baker Links
LINK:
Boulder-Park Cleaver Route.
LINK:
Ski Mountaineering Guide to Mount Baker.
2. MOUNT SHUKSAN
Sulphide Glacier
The
Sulphide Glacier is the most popular route on Mount Shuksan.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Trip Report.
LINK:
Greg Mueller's Trip Report.
LINK:
SkiMountaineer.com Photos.
Fisher Chimneys
The
Fisher Chimneys route is the most popular route from Mount Baker Highway. The chimneys are a series of snow and rock gullies splitting the northern headwall of lower Curtis Glacier, giving access to the upper Curtis Glacier. This is a more challenging route, involving moderately steep rock, snow and ice climbing (in season), and requiring good routefinding and all-around mountaineering skills. It is not recommended for climbers lacking good routefinding skills as well as steep snow, ice and rock experience, or for climbers who are not able to move rapidly and make quick transitions between differing terrain. Those climbers are better off climbing the Sulphide Glacier route.
LINK:
Darin Berdinka's Fisher Chimneys Route Description.
LINK:
Route Description and Photos.
LINK:
Gordon Schryer's Trip Report.
LINK:
Aborted Attempt.
Other Mount Shuksan Links
LINK:
Bob Bolton's Mount Shuksan Photos.
3. TOMYHOI PEAK
Everyone who climbs this peak says it is one of the best alpine scrambles in the North Cascades, with indescribably awesome views. Matt Robertson wrote a compelling trip report about his climb of Tomyhoi Peak, with photos. Bob Bolton has some very nice photos taken from his climb as well.
LINK:
Matt Robertson's Trip Report.
LINK:
Mike Garrison's Scrambling Guide.
LINK:
Bob Bolton Tomyhoi Peak Photos.
4. RUTH MOUNTAIN
This climb is covered in everyone else's guidebook, but it is so popular that I couldn't leave it out.
LINK:
Michael Stanton
and Carlos Pessoa's Trip Report.
LINK:
Matt Robertson's Recommended Climbs.
LINK:
Mike Garrison's Scrambling Guide.
If someone has a description of the traverse over to Icy Peak, I'll post it here. (If a description is really necessary.)
5. NORTH TWIN
The
West Ridge of North Twin is a super classic rock scramble. The descent seems to be the part that causes so much trouble.
LINK:
Gordon Schryer's Route Description.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's
Trip Report.
LINK:
Phil's Trip Report.
6. JACK MOUNTAIN
LINK:
Matt Simerson's Photos of Jack and Crater.
LINK:
Phil's Trip Report.
7. BLACK PEAK
Mike Holman, a Mazama Climb Leader, passed along this useful information
after his climb of Black Peak in August 2002: Heather Pass is 2 miles, not 3, and 1 hour's hike. Once down from the pass and across the
creek, a climbers' trail leads to Lewis Lake. A defined trail continues around the north (right) side of the lake all the way to Wing Lake.
The gully route from the col to the summit block is obvious, but
"Once reaching the final 150' summit block, an easy path traverses up
and right around the east side, and reaches a prominent notch north of
the summit. From there, a solid 4th class gully leads up the
final 50' to the top."
LINK: Matt Robertson's Trip Report.
LINK: Michael Stanton's Trip Report.
8. LIBERTY BELL MOUNTAIN
Beckey Route
LINK:
Beckey Route Trip Report.
LINK:
Beckey Route Trip Report.
LINK:
Another Beckey Route Trip Report.
LINK:
Spring Ascent of Beckey Route
Liberty Crack
LINK:
Scott Presho's Article.
LINK:
North American Classic Climbs.
Other Routes
LINK:
Thin Red Line.
Nearby Peaks and Routes
South Early Winter Spire is the highest of the Liberty Bell group, ranking second in popularity behind Liberty Bell. Like Liberty Bell, South Early Winter Spire has some very impressive alpine rock routes on its South Face and East Buttress, up to Grade V and 5.12. It also has two standard "easy" routes, the SW Couloir and the South Arete. Approach both by hiking up Blue Lake Trail as for Liberty Bell into the basin below the west face of the Early Winter Spires, then skirting around the west face to the base of the SW Couloir.
The
South Arete is the pronounced spur immediately right of the SW Couloir. It is probably the most popular route up South Early Winter Spire, a modestly difficult, airy romp that makes a great introduction to alpine rock. The route is mostly Class 4, with a few short, steep walls and occasional Class 5 moves. Begin up an obvious short (15-foot) corner crack, make a short friction move left (5.6), then follow the prominent gully for several pitches past a small chimney (5.2), eventually reaching a large ledge system on the west side of the ridge. Step up and right on blocks then follow airy crest to an obvious chaval section. Scramble to the top. Bring gear to 3 inches, and a few long slings. Descents may be made down the SW Couloir, but most climbers wisely descend via the South Arete, which involves mostly Class 3 and 4 downclimbing with a few rappels down short steps (or Class 5 downclimbing for those who prefer). A single rope will suffice to rappel the route. This route is often very, very
crowded, so start early or come prepared for a long wait.
The
SW Couloir is the obvious deep gulch. The route is straightforward and needs no detailed description. Just climb directly up the obvious couloir, staying right where the gully splits near the top. This is a good early season route, when steep snow and ice fill the couloir, covering loose rock. Later in the season, it is a loose rock gully that can be very dangerous, especially if there are climbers above. Some climbers rope up and belay the steepest pitches, despite the Class 3 rating. Helmet, ice ax, and crampons recommended. A light rack including a few cams and chocks and a couple of pickets may be useful; double tools may be helpful if icy.
On South Early Winter Spire, the SW Couloir is an avalanche and rockfall gully. Early season ascents recommended, when snow covers loose rock, but only after avalanche hazard has passed. The route can be treacherous when patchy snow and rock. By summer, the route is not popular because of loose rock. Be careful not to knock loose rock down on other climbers. Guided groups have been reported clogging the routes all day, especially the South Arete. Get an early start and climb fast to finish before the route gets "tied up." There is loose rock on the South Arete; climber-caused rockfall can be a problem, especially when the route is crowded. A helmet is recommended; ice ax and crampons for SW Couloir if snow.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Trip Report.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's
Southwest Rib (5.8) Trip Report.
9. SILVER STAR MOUNTAIN
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Trip Report.
10. NORTH GARDNER MOUNTAIN
LINK:
John Roper's Route Description.
11. HIDDEN LAKE PEAK
Hidden Lake Peak is one of the best easy scrambles in the North Cascades. The north ridge and west slope are very entertaining snow, talus and rock scrambles. The west slope has some fun slabs, ramps and cracks that offer several options. The route I did included a 5.10 thin crack/mantel, a 5.6 offwidth, and a 5.4 arete. You can dash to the summit
in 2 or 3 hours, but if you take your time (and your rock shoes) you can have a lot of fun. I would definitely recommend this as a good first climb for any aspiring mountaineer. It's not difficult, and has some of the best views around.
LINK:
Eric Hoffman's Trip Report.
LINK:
Mike Garrison's Scrambling Guide.
LINK:
Greg Mueller's Ski Trip.
12. SNOWKING MOUNTAIN
Mike Holman, a Mazama Climb Leader, passed along some useful information about Snowking Mountain via Kindy Ridge after his climb July 26-28:
Road 1570 is 14.5 miles off Cascade River Road; the main road is obvious so ignore indistinct forks and drive to a major wash-out and park in
a pull-out big enough for 4-5 cars at 1850'. Hike up the road 2 miles where a well-defined trail begins at road's end.
The shortcut suggested in Climbing Washington's Mountains is hard to find; easier to stay on the road. The trail is
seldom if ever "faint and hard to follow", just steep for 1500'. The trail contours to the 4800' saddle south of Point 5116.
Just beyond the saddle a well-defined climbers' trail leaves the main trail and begins climbing to the top of Point 5791; this trail is freshly flagged.
A camp at the top of Point 5791 has good tent sites, great views and plenty of snow for water; 4-5 hours to here.
The trail from Point 5791 to the summit ridge is an obvious and well-defined path, which continues on almost to the summit itself.
LINK: Phil's Snowking Glacier Trip Report.
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Eldorado Peak from Hidden Lake Peak
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13. ELDORADO PEAK
LINK:
Michael Stanton's First Trip Report.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Second Trip Report.
LINK:
Gordon Schryer's Trip Report.
LINK:
Eric Hoffman's Trip Report (Sibley Creek approach).
LINK:
Some Photos.
LINK:
North Ridge Trip Report.
LINK:
Northeast Face Trip Report.
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Forbidden Peak from Hidden Lake Peak
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14. FORBIDDEN PEAK
West Ridge Route
LINK:
Route Description and Photos.
LINK:
Photo of West Ridge Couloir.
LINK:
West Ridge Attempt.
Other Routes
The
East Face (III, Class 4) is the easiest and most direct route up Forbidden Peak. From high camp in Boston Basin, ascend glacier-polished slabs, snowfields, and the upper Forbidden Glacier to a steep gully. In late season, a moat may block easy access to the gully. The gully is a steep snow climb in early season, and a loose, slightly technical scramble in late season. From the top of the gully, ascend in a rising traverse leftward across snowfields and easy rock scrambling to the East Ridge. The climbing route begins on the west side of the prominent gendarme on the ridge. From here, cross over the ridge and traverse Class 3 and 4 ledges several hundred feet across the face. The face is deceptively low-angle but exposed, so roping up and placing an occasional piece of protection along the traverse is recommended. Continue up the obvious gully system leading up the NE Face to the summit. Descend the route via several rappels down the gullies, then traversing back across the ledges. Some parties descend the West Ridge, which is not any faster and clogs up the route for other climbers.
The
East Ridge (III, 5.8) can be climbed directly. It is a classic alpine rock route that has become very popular since it was featured in Selected Climbs. Approach as for the East Face route. From the notch next to the gendarme, proceed directly up the rock ridge. Climb the first major hump in the ridge directly (5.7). Skirt around the second hump on the north side of the ridge, via exposed, and unfortunately grassy (5.6) rock, to a notch below a small gendarme (this traversing pitch is longer than a 50m rope; simul-climbing may be required). The left and right sides of this small gendarme are difficult (5.9 or 5.10); it is easier to climb directly over and back down it, in half a rope length. From here, another long and exposed pitch (5.3, over 50m) bypasses a large gendarme on the north side of the ridge, arriving at a small col. This col can be indentified by a semicircle shaped chunk of rock missing from the gendarme east of it. The next, very exhilarating, pitch is a short, yet quite steep 5.8
step with large holds and good protection. From here continue up the ridge crest via low Class 5 (for two long or three medium-length pitches) directly to the summit. The route is continuously Class 5, with a few moves of 5.7 and 5.8. When in doubt, one can usually bypass obstacles on the north (right) side of the ridge, though rock on the north side is looser, grassier, and offers less protection than the ridge. When one's rope runs out on the north side traverses, the pitches may be finished with a running belay. Belay at ridge notches whenever possible. Variations are possible along the ridge. There is some loose rock, and descent from various points along the ridge would be tricky. The East Face descent route is recommended.
LINK:
Phil's East Ridge Trip Report.
Michael Stanton has a
trip report of a climb of the full North Ridge, another great
route on Forbidden Peak.
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Climber approaching Sahale Peak
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15. SAHALE PEAK
Sahale Glacier
In the guide, I refer to those who climb Sahale Peak unroped as "idiots." I am one of those "idiots" I'm afraid. That's a big, long crevasse, and the summit rocks are no scramble, so I strongly recommend roping up on the glacier and belaying the last pitch on the summit rocks.
LINK:
My Route Description.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Trip Report.
LINK:
Northwest Outdoors Guide Trip Report.
LINK:
Bob Bolton's Photos.
Other Routes
Another popular route up Sahale Peak climbs the west side via
Quien Sabe Glacier. It is more challenging, and a bit longer, and thus not as popular as the Sahale Glacier route, although it is climbed fairly often. Approach via the Boston Basin route to Quien Sabe Glacier (see Forbidden Peak chapter for approach details), or traverse leftward across heather and scree slopes from the ~6,500-foot level on Sahale Arm. Rope up and cross the glacier, ascending to the obvious Boston-Sahale Col. The glacier is gentler on its far left side, more challenging if you climb it directly. From the col, follow the ridge rightward and up to the summit. The initial part of the ridge is moderately exposed snow or easy rock scrambling. The ridge levels out, then ascends more steeply to the summit. The final portion of the ridge is mixed snow and rock with increasing exposure, especially on the final short rock climb to the summit. Class 4-5, about 8 hours to summit. Most parties make an overnight climb, bivouacking below the glacier. The upper ridge of the Quien Sabe Glacier route is pictured on the cover of
Climbing Washington's Mountains.
LINK:
Gordon Schryer's Trip Report.
16. MIX-UP PEAK
Nothing yet. Sorry!
17. BUCKNER MOUNTAIN
LINK:
Eric Hoffman's Trip Report.
18. GOODE MOUNTAIN
I expect some flak for publishing the
Northeast Buttress route instead of one of the easier routes.
If someone has climbed one of the couloir routes on the west face and will provide me with a trip report and photos, I will post it here.
Obviously, the Northeast Buttress is not the easiest route up the peak, so all of you peak baggers looking to tag the summit will have
to resort to Beckey's guide or be patient while I ferret out a better route description and a topo or photo.
LINK:
Alex Krawarik's Trip Report.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's
Trip Report.
19. MOUNT LOGAN
LINK:
Eric Hoffman's Trip Report.
20. BONANZA PEAK
LINK:
Morgan Balogh's Bonanza Peak Feature.
LINK:
Mary Green Glacier Trip Report.
Related Links
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