This page is a supplement to the Glacier Peak Wilderness/Mountain Loop Road, Index Area, and Entiat Mountains sections of Climbing Washington's Mountains
, including peaks 21 through 44 in the guide (Glacier Peak through Mount Fernow).
GLACIER PEAK REGION
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Glacier Peak
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21. GLACIER PEAK
LINK:
Eric Hoffman's Second Trip Report.
LINK:
Sitkum Glacier Route Description and Photos.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's
Frostbite Ridge Trip Report.
LINK:
SkiMountaineer.com Glacier Peak Page.
LINK:
Sitkum Glacier Photos.
22. WHITEHORSE MOUNTAIN
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Trip Report (unsuccessful).
LINK:
his second
attempt, this time via Snow Gulch (successful).
LINK:
Eric Hoffman's Trip Report.
23. WHITE CHUCK MOUNTAIN
The 6,455-foot
NW Peak of White Chuck Mountain is a straightforward but loose Class 3 scramble from the top of the west face gully. A previously unreported route climbed by Doug Weaver, Ben Flekes and partner in August 1993 climbs the SW Face of the NW Peak via Class 3 ramps and gullies and two pitches of Class 5 rock up to 5.4 in difficulty. It is said to be a good route on mostly sound rock. Descend by scrambling down the west face gully. The route is shown in the topo on page 114 of
Climbing Washington's Mountains.
LINK:
Southwest Face Route
24. MOUNT PUGH
LINK:
Northwest Outdoors Guide Trip Report.
25. SLOAN PEAK
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Trip Report (Corkscrew Route).
LINK:
Phil's Trip Report
(of the same trip!).
LINK:
Michael Stanton's
Trip Report (West Face).
LINK:
Gordon Schryer's Trip Report.
26. CADET PEAK
LINK:
The Monte Cristo Triangle.
27. MONTE CRISTO PEAK
There is a popular scrambling route up the
West Face. Begin as for the North Col route to the snowfield below the NW Face, then traverse steep snow rightward and up to the obvious
gully right of the NW face. This gully is basically an avalanche and rockfall chute, so approach it with caution, and definitely don't try it during periods of avalanche hazard. Ascend the long, scree-filled gully to an open area on the western summit shoulder. A short rock step is passed (Class 5 bouldering move), then the route punches through a large hole/chimney to gain the final rock slab to the south summit. An exposed, loose scramble leads to the summit. Although mostly easy, this route has some very exposed scrambling up loose rock. It would be very easy to lose one's footing on gravelly rock and slide over a cliff. This is possibly what happened to
Michael Wessels when he fell from the route and died in August 2000.
LINK:
The Monte Cristo Triangle.
28. COLUMBIA PEAK
There is an interesting route over
Wilmans Gap from Glacier Basin that is an option if you are climbing several peaks from a basecamp in the basin, or prefer a snow climb. Approach as for Monte Cristo Peak, hiking in to Glacier Basin and continuing to the head of the basin and climbing the talus slope through the initial cliff band to the snow slopes below the NW face, as for the North Col route. Once on the snowfields above the first cliff band, make a rising traverse rightward up the snow slopes to an obvious snow gully that gives access to the upper snow slopes below Monte Cristo Pass. Continue rightward, traversing snow slopes up to and across the Wilmans Glacier to ~6,500-foot Wilmans Gap. Cross the gap (late-season moat or bergschrund may be difficult to pass) and descend briefly to Seventy-Six Glacier (may be another moat or bergshcrund to deal with), then contour SW across the glacier to the foot of the west spur, and ascend the ridge to the summit. This route has some steep snow climbing getting up and over Wilmans Gap, and glacier climbing. Roping up recommended on the glaciers and moat crossings.
The Wilmans Gap route from Glacier Basin has high avalanche hazard in winter and spring, and rockfall hazard on the slopes below Monte Cristo Peak and Pass. The Wilmans Glacier is crevassed. A moat or bergschrund crossing, or two, may be difficult. Steep, hard snow climbing likely. A helmet, ice ax, and crampons are recommended, as is roping up on the glaciers.
LINK:
The Monte Cristo Triangle.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Trip Report.
LINK:
Eric Hoffman's Trip Report.
29. KYES PEAK
LINK:
The Monte Cristo Triangle.
30. DEL CAMPO PEAK
The
SW Buttress offers a slightly more technical route, with interesting climbing on flakes and incut holds. Approach to the base of the gully, then traverse scree or snow leftward along the base of the wall. Angle rightward up blocky rock, then work up a steeper rock face just left of a gully. Two pitches of low Class 5 climbing on mostly clean, solid rock lead to the ridge crest. Scramble up the ridge crest to the summit. Bring a light rack to 2 inches and some slings. A single rope will suffice. Descend the scrambling route. The route is depicted on page 141 of
Climbing Washington's Mountains. This is based on a trip report from
Michael Stanton, who isn't sure he climbed the true SW Buttress route. There may be several possible variations; the one Michael reported sounds kind of cool.
LINK:
Northwest Outdoors Guide Trip Report.
31. VESPER PEAK
LINK:
Northwest Outdoors Guide Trip Report.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's
Trip Report (North Face).
LINK:
Vesper Peak Pictures.
LINK:
Sperry Peak Pictures.
32. MOUNT FORGOTTEN
LINK:
Tom Breit's Trip Report.
33. THREE FINGERS MOUNTAIN
To climb the
North Peak, the true summit, leave the trail at Tin Can Gap or at the higher Camp Saddle (elevation ~5,850 feet), descend to the glacier. Getting down to the glacier from Tin Can Gap may require a rappel. Traverse the glacier and ascend a snow finger toward the saddle dividing the north and middle summits. Just below the saddle, traverse blocky ledges leftward and up to the ridge crest. Continue along ledges to the base of the obvious chimney on the north buttress. Some parties start belaying before the chimney. Climb the chimney to the top of the first buttress, then scramble easier rock up the ridge and just right to the summit. Two to four roped pitches of Class 4 and low Class 5 climbing, not especially well protected. Bring a light rack and some slings. A single rope will suffice. Downclimb and rappel the route.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Trip Report.
LINK:
Northwest Outdoors Guide Trip Report.
LINK:
Cool picture
of the North Face by Michael Stanton.
34. MOUNT PILCHUCK
LINK:
Northwest Outdoors Guide Trip Report.
35. MOUNT PERSIS
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Trip Report.
LINK:
Matt Robertson's Trip Report
LINK:
Eric Hoffman's Trip Report.
LINK:
Mike Garrison's Scrambling Guide.
LINK:
Northwest Outdoors Guide Trip Report.
36. MOUNT INDEX
The
North Face of the North Peak of Mount Index is one of the classic alpine rock climbs in the Cascades. Perhaps "classic" is an overstatement. Read Michael Stanton's trip report to see why.
LINK:
North Face of North Peak.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Trip Report.
37. GUNN PEAK
Gunn Peak can be enchained with Merchant Peak via an enjoyable high route. From the Barclay-Gunn divide, scramble up and over Point 5760. There is debris from the plane crash here, just SW below the summit. Skirt the summit on the south side. A short Class 3 rock step must be passed on the east slope. Staying on the ridge involves some very exposed Class 3 and 4 scrambling or a rappel down a rock buttress. Descend the opposite ridge to a saddle, then drop into a meadow basin and traverse southward up the other side to a notch high on Merchant Peak's west ridge. This notch is the top of the gully described in the Merchant Peak route description. Descend the narrow, loose gully (Class 2 and 3) about 700 feet to the snow basin described in the Merchant Peak chapter. From here, climb Merchant Peak, then descend via the Merchant Peak gully to Barclay Lake Trail and hike out. This is most easily accomplished by climbing Merchant Peak first, but can be done from Gunn Peak without much trouble with good routefinding sense, or prior experience with the Merchant Peak gully.
LINK:
Gunn Peak Safari.
LINK:
Michael Stanton and
Peter Chapman's Trip Report.
38. MERCHANT PEAK
Nothing yet. Sorry!
39. BARING MOUNTAIN
LINK:
Tom Breit's Trip Report (Thanks, Tom!)
40. MOUNT HOWARD
Nothing yet. Sorry!
41. CLARK MOUNTAIN
The
Walrus Glacier on the mountain's NE flank offers a much more alpine climbing experience. Follow the Boulder Pass Trail all the way to the pass (10.5 miles from trailhead). The usual route descends about 500 feet from the pass, then climbs a snow basin on the north side of the ridge to the base of the glacier. Another option heads west up the ridge from the pass toward the ~7,200 foot ridge point east of the false summit, leaves the ridge at ~6,500 feet elevation and traverses a wide, sloping ledge northward, then scrambles up boulders to the eastern edge of the glacier. Bivy possibilities here. Ascend the glacier, traversing and skirting crevasses as necessary, then climb the broad gully to the gentle ridge crest just east of the summit pyramid, and scramble up the ridge directly to the summit, or climb easy slopes on the SE side. This route is best done in early season; the glacier becomes quite broken and icy by late summer. Definitely rope up on the glacier.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's First Report.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Second Report.
42. MOUNT MAUDE
The Entiat Icefall route is a popular route up the north side of Mount Maude, probably the most popular alpine route on the mountain.
LINK:
Darin Berdinka's Route Guide.
LINK:
Entiat Icefall Trip Report.
LINK:
Phil's Pictures.
43. SEVEN FINGERED JACK
Nothing yet. Sorry!
44. MOUNT FERNOW
Nothing yet. Sorry!
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