This page is a supplement to the Alpine Lakes Wilderness section of Climbing Washington's Mountains
, including peaks 45 through 75 in the guide (Ingalls Peak through Mount Daniel).
ALPINE LAKES WILDERNESS
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Mount Stuart from Longs Pass
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45. INGALLS PEAK
Although regarded as a "classic," I personally think the South Ridge route is overrated. As a summit, it is surely a fine spot, with exposure and sublime views. But the
actual climbing getting there isn't really that great, especially when there are several parties on the route. As crowded climbs go, The Tooth is a much better choice.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Trip Report.
LINK:
Route Description and Photos.
LINK:
Gordon Schryer's Trip Report.
46. MOUNT STUART
If you just want to summit this beast, take the Cascadian Couloir. If you want a moderately committing Class 5 adventure, the West Ridge is for you. If you are a fan of direct lines and enjoy a challenge,
climb the North Ridge. There are a lot of other great routes on Mount Stuart, so don't limit yourself to just the "classic" routes.
Cascadian Couloir Route
LINK:
Eric Hoffman's Trip Report.
West Ridge Route
LINK:
Route Description, Photos and Links.
LINK:
West Ridge Route Description.
LINK:
West Ridge Photos.
LINK:
West Ridge Photos
LINK:
Michael Stanton's West Ridge Trip Report.
North Ridge Route
LINK:
Dave's Trip Report.
LINK:
North Ridge Route Description and Photos.
Other Routes
A description of a previously unreported route on the Northwest Face of the West Ridge is posted on the
Route Info page.
Michael Stanton describes a climb of the
Ice Cliff Glacier, and
more recently, of the
Stuart Glacier Couloir. A description of the Sherpa Glacier descent is also given.
47. SHERPA PEAK
There is a really good photo of Sherpa Peak in Eric Hoffman's Mount Stuart trip report, showing the west ridge in detail.
LINK:
Eric Hoffman's Trip Report.
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Dragontail, Colchuck, and Argonaut Peaks from near Windy Pass
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48. COLCHUCK PEAK
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Trip Report.
The
North Buttress route is an interesting, very alpine climb, involving about 2,000 feet of blocky scrambling and easy climbing up to Class 5 in difficulty depending on the route taken. Follow Colchuck Lake Trail to its end in the boulder field, then scramble up the far right side of the talus slope to the right edge of the Colchuck Glacier moraine, then rightward up a gully to a col at the base of the buttress. Ascend from the col, staying right of the buttress at first until above its base, then scramble up the crest or just right. Generally, staying right of the crest makes for easier climbing, while staying on the ridge makes the climb more challenging. The route is forced right several hundred feet near the top of the buttress. However, staying on the crest for the final 200 feet adds some interesting Class 5 climbing. Bring a light rack and several slings, and ice ax and crampons for the gully climb to the buttress and the descent down Colchuck Glacier. Helmet recommended.
A probable enchainment would be to climb the North Buttress route, then traverse over and up Dragontail Peak, then out via Aasgard Pass. That would be a decent day trip (considering that Peter Croft traversed the entire Stuart Range solo in a day, no self-respecting climber would admit to taking longer for this little traverse). A continuation for a truly grand high route would cross over Prusik Pass (maybe climbing Prusik Peak?) and climbing
Cannon Mountain, then descending back to the trailhead. A long day, sure, but reasonable with a bivouac, right?
49. DRAGONTAIL PEAK
LINK:
Trip Report via
Triple Couloirs.
LINK:
Dave Burdick's Serpentine Arete Trip Report.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's
Serpentine Arete Trip Report.
50. PRUSIK PEAK
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Trip Report.
LINK:
BOEALPS Trip Report.
LINK:
Picture of 5.7 Slab.
51. CANNON MOUNTAIN
Based on a recent trip report, I cannot recommend the route described in my guide as the best route up Cannon Mountain. These poor climbers reported a brushy hell. (They were off route much of the way, but no matter.) There may be no such thing as a "best" route up this beast.
The route up the gully northwest of the summit, from Mountaineer Creek trail, looks like a long but not-too-brushy scramble. The route from Prusik Pass isn't very long or difficult, it's just the getting
there that's the problem. I will scout out some alternatives and report what I find!
52. CASHMERE MOUNTAIN
LINK:
Michael Stanton's
Trip Report.
Click here for a description of the
Windy Gap route on Cashmere Mountain.
53. BIG CHIWAUKUM
Click here for route descriptions, topos, and photos of the
NW Ridge and
South Ridge routes. Morgan Balogh thinks I've overly glamorized the climb; he thought it was a pile.
A variation of the NW Ridge route climbs a ledge and corners on the
East Face. It is marked "East Face option" in the topo on page 215 of
Climbing Washington's Mountains. When you reach the second difficult arete traverse, scramble leftward up a talus basin to a sharp notch overlooking the broad east face snowfield. Downclimb a short, exposed step to a ledge, then traverse about 80 feet leftward along the exposed ledge to where it ends. Climb up a slabby, left-facing corner some 25 feet to a higher ledge, then traverse about 20 feet down and left on this ledge until directly below the upper notch. Climb the steep corner/gully another 20 feet or so to the notch. I thought this variation was Class 4, maybe 5.0, with pretty good exposure and mostly sound rock. It is steep and exposed enough to justify belaying and placing occasional protection.
54. SNOWGRASS MOUNTAIN
Thomas Deml found out the hard way that I made a mistake on the route description on this one. I neglected to reference the fact that the Frosty Creek trail has been rerouted, adding 6 miles to the distance via Icicle Creek.
Last time I went in this way was in 1979. For those coming over from Puget Sound via US-2, I recommend hiking in via Wildhorse Creek trail to Frosty Pass, not much less hiking distance but it saves you at least an hour of driving, so is
faster overall. Thanks, Thomas, for the correction.
55. BIG JIM MOUNTAIN
Nothing yet. Sorry!
56. GRANITE MOUNTAIN
This is the "other" Granite Mountain, above Hyas Lake near Deception Pass.
The route described in
Climbing Washington's Mountains is the popular route, but I read in the summit register about a
route ascending directly from upper Hyas Lake straight up to the summit. That would be quite a strenuous climb. A few climbers
do the ridge traverse all the way to Paddy-Go-Easy Pass, which appears to be a good ridge walk without much difficulty.
57. MOUNT SI
Apparently there is now a big sign at the base of the Haystack that points the way to the summit scramble. I suppose that's a good thing, since it
helps novice hikers avoid killing themselves trying the wrong route. But it seems like a bad idea for DNR to be encouraging hikers to leave the trail
and get on some exposed, loose rock.
LINK:
Northwest Outdoors Guide Trip Report.
If anyone has route information about rock climbs on the Haystack south face, please let me know. Not that anyone is likely to
carry a rope and gear up there for a couple of pitches of crappy 5.8. (If anybody knows Warren or Larry from the UW rock, they
used to go up there all the time back in the 80s and might have some beta.)
58. BIG SNOW MOUNTAIN
LINK:
Matt Robertson's Trip Report.
59. McCLELLAN BUTTE
LINK:
Northwest Outdoors Guide Trip Report.
60. GRANITE MOUNTAIN
This is the Granite Mountain near Snoqualmie Pass, not to be confused with the other Granite Mountains in the Cascades.
LINK:
Northwest Outdoors Guide Trip Report.
61. KALEETAN PEAK
The
North Ridge (II, 5.2) is a moderately popular route, traversing from Mount Roosevelt via continuous, exposed scrambling and a little bit of Class 5 climbing. Scramble up Mount Roosevelt, a straightforward ascent by crossing Melakwa Pass, descending to Snow Peak Lake, traversing heather slopes and ascending a Class 3 ridge, or with more routefinding challenge via Snow Lake or Gem Lake. For a convenient loop trip, approach via Melakwa Pass so you can descend the standard route to the trail. One may access the ridge directly without summiting Roosevelt first, but most parties climb Roosevelt first. From there, the route is straightforward. Simply traverse the long connecting ridge all the way to Kaleetan's summit. There is a short rock step partway up the ridge (5.2); the remainder of the route is enjoyable, continuous Class 2 and 3 scrambling and Class 4 climbing on blocky granite, except for a couple of sections of exposed, loose rock scrambling. These sections are easy, but so loose and exposed
that some climbers abandon the ascent. Helmet recommended. A light rack should suffice; bring several long slings. Descend via the scrambling route to Melakwa Lake.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's
South Ridge report.
62. THE TOOTH
LINK:
South Face Route Description.
LINK:
Gordon Schryer's Trip Report.
LINK:
Theron
Welch's Trip Report.
63. CHAIR PEAK
The
NE Buttress is a very popular Class 4 rock climb, with quite a bit of rockfall hazard. When I first climbed it back in 1977, our trip leader nearly took a fist-sized rock to the chest. Even if you normally don't wear a helmet, wear a helmet on this peak.
The route is becoming a very popular winter climb as well, not quite as trendy as the North Face, but a good climb during good conditions. Read these links to find out more about a winter climb of the NE Buttress route. Remember, though, that this area is VERY avalanche prone, so approach with caution.
LINK:
Tom Breit's Trip Report (a cautionary tale).
LINK:
Matt Robertson's Trip Report.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's North Face Trip Report.
LINK:
his
Winter NE Buttress Trip Report.
64. SNOQUALMIE MOUNTAIN
One of the false summits of Snoqualmie Mountain is a sharp rock fin just NE of the true summit. The easiest route to its top is from the NE side. Descend from the first summit to a notch, then traverse leftward across an exposed ledge which leads around a corner to a broad shelf bisecting the west face of the rock peak. Cross the shelf, which angles downward and slopes away, and would be tricky when snow or ice covered. Once across the shelf, skirt around and up talus or snow or interesting slabby blocks to the saddle on the opposite side, then ascend the narrowing rock ridge to the top. The summit block is small and exposed. Roping up is an option due to the unnerving exposure, but the climbing isn't really difficult, maybe Class 3. A route up the SE side is slabby Class 5 with loose blocks.
Once you've traversed over to the NE side, you can continue with a traverse of Lundin Peak (Class 4) and out via Commonwealth Basin. If you're motivated, you can summit Red Mountain, too.
LINK:
Northwest Outdoors Guide Trip Report.
65. LUNDIN PEAK
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Trip Report.
66. RED MOUNTAIN
Back in 1976 I got avalanched off of Red Mountain during a late winter attempt with Peter Travis. We were a couple of dumb kids then, enjoying a fine, wet, warm day in the mountains, obvlivious to
the avalanche hazard. We got up about 200 feet below the summit and nearly got wiped out by a big slide coming down the west gully. In good conditions, this is a great spring snow climb, but beware the obvious!
LINK:
Michael Stanton's
Trip Report.
LINK:
Tom Breit's Trip Report.
67. KENDALL PEAK
The route described in
75 Scrambles is not the best choice. The ridge route from the saddle is definitely the better of the two.
68. MOUNT THOMPSON
The
West Ridge route (III, 5.6) is very popular. Approach via Bumblebee Pass, then angle left around the south face and up talus and scree or snow slopes to a tiny notch at the base of the ridge. The first pitch climbs up just left of the ridge, following a rock gully up to the crest. The next pitch ascends steeply on or near the ridge crest to the base of a short wall. Climb the wall via a crack and face holds on the left (20 feet of 5.6), then continue on up a low-angle slab and belay at its top. Steep, loose, but relatively easy rock continues up the ridge to another low-angle slab below the false summit. Scramble over the false summit, then climb a final short pitch on the ridge crest to the summit. The route is very straightforward; except for the first 50 feet, the route stays on or near the ridge crest all the way to the summit. To descend, downclimb the east ridge; a rappel down the initial section is an option. Michael Stanton's trip reports cover both routes.
LINK:
Michael Stantons' East Ridge Trip Report.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's West Ridge Trip Report.
69. ALTA MOUNTAIN
LINK:
Matt Robertson's First Trip Report.
LINK:
Matt Robertson's Second Trip Report.
70. CHIKAMIN PEAK
The
Glacier Lake route is a longer route, but recommended as an easier route to find and follow. This route ascends the NE slopes of Chikamin Peak above Spectacle Lake. This route is an enjoyable subalpine meadow and rock scramble. The easiest approach
is from Mineral Creek and Park Lakes via FS Trail 1331. From the PCT at the top of the switchbacks above Park Lakes, leave the trail and hike cross-country up and over the saddle east of Point 6300 and drop to Glacier Lake, a good campsite for explorations of this area.
Follow the inlet stream to the tarns above Glacier Lake, from where access to Chikamin Peak is straightforward. There are several possible routes from Glacier Lake to the summit. The best crosses a shelf just west of the lake and climbs slabby rock to the SE ridge, then
to the summit as for the Four Brothers route. Expect to take about 3 hours from Glacier Lake to the summit. The route is shown on page 271 of
Climbing Washington's Mountains.
LINK:
Eric Hoffman's Chikamin Trip Report.
71. LEMAH MOUNTAIN
LINK:
Eric Hoffman's Lemah One Trip Report.
72. CHIMNEY ROCK
Nothing yet. Sorry!
73. SUMMIT CHIEF MOUNTAIN
Nothing yet. Sorry!
74. MOUNT HINMAN
Nothing yet. Sorry!
75. MOUNT DANIEL
Peggy's Pond Routes
The usual route is the
Hyas Creek Glacier via Peggy's Pond. Having attempted the
Southeast Ridge, I recommend the other route. Not that the ridge route isn't worthy,
because it has better views and is more "interesting" than the "glacier" route, which is a snow slog. Either route is feasible as a day climb from Seattle if you get an early start and don't mind getting back a little late. The
Lynch Glacier route is definitely an overnighter.
LINK:
Michael Stanton's Trip Report.
LINK:
Greg Mueller's Trip Report
Lynch Glacier
The
Lynch Glacier route is relatively remote but very popular. It may be approached most easily via Peggy's Pond. From Peggy's Pond, hike over the saddle to Hyas Creek basin and climb over the east ridge via a ~6,300-foot saddle directly north, then drop down and traverse the Daniel Creek basin to Lynch Gap. If you camp at Peggy's Pond, you will have a very long climb the next day. A popular alternative approach is via Hyas Lake/Deception Pass Trail (FS Trail 1376), shortcutting from the upper end of Hyas Lake across a brushy bog and up to the PCT, then scrambling and bushwhacking up the ridge to Lynch Gap. This route is said to be faster if you know the way, but some parties end up lost at some point on the approach or retreat. First you have to find the side trail leading to Little Hyas Lake; it is not marked or flagged. From the north end of Little Hyas Lake, follow minor trails (may be flagged) leading west through the timber to the creek, then cross at a well-used crossing and ascend the climbers' trail up to meet the PCT at ~4,000 elevation. Go north about 150 feet from here to a small drainage and follow a boot track leading up the gully and the ridge just left. Follow goat trails up into the lower Daniel Glacier basin, then gain the ridge on the north side of the basin and ascend subalpine slopes to 6,250-foot Lynch Gap. Either approach will take about 5-6 hours if you don't get lost. Most parties camp at Lynch Gap. However you get there, skirt Pea Soup Lake, then rope up and ascend the glacier directly to the ridge just east of the summit. Getting around the lake can be a challenge, especially later in the season. Some parties take a risky shortcut across the lake when frozen. Others ascend Daniel Ridge briefly from the gap and descend a gully or traverse a higher ramp to gain the glacier. The glacier is a fairly easy climb in early season, but can be heavily crevassed by late summer. A short, loose scramble reaches the summit. The climb from Pea Soup Lake to the summit takes about 2-3 hours for most parties, but allow more time, especially in late season when crevasses may slow you down considerably. If it seems too difficult to get around Pea Soup Lake to climb the Lynch Glacier, an alternative route ascends Daniel Ridge and the west edge of Daniel Glacier to the summit ridge.
LINK:
Gordon Schryer's Trip Report.
LINK:
Lynch Glacier Photos.
Related Links
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