SAHALE PEAK, SAHALE GLACIER (I, 5.0) Cascade Pass, North Cascades National Park, Washington

back to classics

---

Sahale Peak, photo by Bob Bolton

Sahale Peak is the sharply pointed peak rising immediately north of Cascade Pass. It is an attractive peak, and an accessible and relatively simple climb, with remarkable panoramic views. Sahale is a popular climb, largely because of its relatively easy access compared to other Cascade Pass area summits, and also because of its central location and views. From the summit, you get a grand view of the Cascade Pass peaks—Johanesburg Mountain, Cascade Peak, The Triplets, Mix-up Peak, Magic Mountain, Pelton Peak, Buckner Mountain, Boston Peak, Forbidden Peak, Eldorado Peak, and Hidden Lakes Peak—and many summits in the near and far distance, including Snowking Mountain, Mounts Logan and Goode, MacGregor Mountain, Mounts Baker, Shuksan and Rainier, Glacier Peak, the Monte Cristo Peaks, and an incredible view down the Shehekin River Valley all the way to the northern tip of Lake Chelan. It is considered one of the best view peaks of the North Cascades, and rightly so. Although Sahale Peak is regarded by many climbers as an easy climb, and is reported in one popular guidebook as a Class 3 route, the final rock scramble to the summit is fairly rugged and exposed, with a few moves that may cause even experienced climbers a moment’s pause. On a clear, dry day, the summit climb is enjoyable and airy, but if the rock is wet, icy, or snow covered, or visibility is poor, it is a more serious climb. Many climbers come without a rope, expecting a simple romp to the summit, but stop short unwilling to climb the final pitch unroped.

The popular route up Sahale Peak is via the Sahale Arm and Sahale Glacier. The approach is simple and straightforward. Just hike the 3.7 miles to Cascade Pass, then turn up Sahale Arm Trail and follow another 2 miles to Sahale Glacier Camp at about 7,700 feet elevation. Since the climb can be done in a day, most opt to climb light instead of carrying a heavy pack up to the glacier camp.

From camp, the route is simple. Ascend the glacier to the base of the summit rocks, avoiding a mid-level crevasse, then climb the rocks to the top. There are three popular variations, all about Class 5.0. The usual route climbs a ramp on the south face to an alcove midway up, where a short Class 5 headwall leads to the top. Another is to climb the ridge on the west side, a short, blocky Class 4-5 ascent. Another is to skirt around the north side and finish up the west ridge as for the Qien Sabe Glacier route.

back to classics