PISCES, aka LIBRA CRACK (5.6 or 5.10a) Lower Town Wall, Index, Washington

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Brennan Van Blair leading Libra Crack

Doug Weaver follows Pisces

The Great Northern Slab, or slab area, on the left flank of the Lower Town Wall, used to be called the "free area" because with very few exceptions, all of the free routes at Index were located there. That was back in the late 70s, when climbing at Index meant aid climbing, although not much of that seemed to happen except on City Park and Iron Horse. Of course, all of that changed in the mid-80s, when climbers figured out that with a little scrubbing here and a couple of bolts there, many of the old aid routes could be free climbed. This transformed Index into one of the leading granite climbing areas on the west coast. Of course, not everybody flocks to the umpteen 5.11d routes on the lower and upper walls. There are still a fair number of climbers who find the "free area" about right. With its several crack routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.10, and a few 5.11 and 5.12 sport climbs squeezed in between, it is still a very popular venue.

Matt Arksey leads Libra Crack

Among the most popular routes here is Pisces, and for good reason, as it is probably the best straight-in jamcrack at Index. The route begins with a scamper up the 5.0 flakes below the old iron bolts left over from the quarrying days (still referred to as the "railroad" bolts for some reason). From there, the crack leads directly up a slightly overhanging wall for maybe 30 feet to a ledge, with thin hand jams at the start, eventually widening. From the ledge, the crack continues up a slabby wall, with perfect hand jams for another 50 feet to anchors.

The route used to be rated 5.8. That was back when a big, wobbly block was stuck at the base of the crack, allowing a grunty lieback move to step up on top of the block, from where the solid jams were easily reached. The block fell out in 1979 or so, adding several thin hand jams to the start of the crack and upping the rating to 5.10. This used to be a somewhat intimidating lead with chocks for protection; the introduction of Friends made it a lot easier to protect. The crux still repels its share of climbers, especially climbers new to jamming. Climbers not up to the grade can avoid the hard part by climbing a slabby corner on the right, or by traversing in from the left, to the base of the upper crack.


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