ORBIT (III, 5.8) Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth, Washington        topo map

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Jeff Smoot follows Orbit

Orbit is one of the overlooked classics of Washington rock climbing. Although as long and exposed as its more-famous neighbor, Outer Space, and even a bit easier, Orbit is not the route of first choice for most Snow Creek Wall climbers. Everybody wants to climb Outer Space. Let them! Orbit is a great route, even if it is the second-best route on Snow Creek Wall. With everybody lining up to climb Outer Space, you might find yourself with a belay ledge all to yourself. Then again, with the route having been featured in Selected Climbs Volume 2, those days might be over.

Orbit (III, 5.8)

The route climbs a steep, direct line up the left flank of Snow Creek Wall. It begins with a 5.7+ chimney, an inauspicious start for those averse to wide cracks, but it's only briefly difficult. The next pitch is a long leftward traverse leading to the base of a steep corner; watch for rope drag on this pitch. The pitch ends either on a pedestal just below the dihedral, or with a short 5.8 finger crack. The next pitch is the crux, climbing up the corner and out onto the airy upper face, via thin dikes and flakes, up to a difficult mantel onto the belay stance, probably the crux of the route. (Actually, the hard part is finding room for two climbers to stand; definitely don't climb this route with a threesome.) From there, the route continues up discontinuous cracks and onto the chickenheads, passing a roof where it conveniently narrows down, then keeps going up the knob-studded headwall. These two pitches have some slightly runout climbing, but nothing too serious if you have a comprehensive rack. After that, it's mostly easy climbing, straying leftward up ledges and corners to the top. At least, that's how I remember it after twenty years. (read more about that).

Of course, there's that wonderful Snow Creek Wall descent. Read Eric Hirst's article, The Goats of Snow Creek Wall, to find out more about why you shouldn't start climbing Snow Creek Wall late in the day.


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