MIDWAY (II, 5.5) Castle Rock, Leavenworth, Washington

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Midway topo

Midway was the first route up Castle Rock, and remains one of its most popular. It is certainly not the best route on Castle Rock, but owing to its rating, its historical significance, its fabulous exposure, its modest difficulty, and its overwhelming popularity, Midway must be a classic. Otherwise, why would so many people climb it? Well, for one, it is one of the easiest routes up Castle Rock. In his 1965 guide, Guide to Leavenworth Rock Climbing, Fred Beckey provides an interesting account of the history of Midway, including speed records, ascents of interest, along with a move-by-move narrative of the route unequalled by any guidebook since. Copies of Beckey's guide are rare, but it makes for interesting, sometimes amusing reading, if you can find it.

Midway begins from Logger's Ledge, the broad shelf splitting Castle Rock at midheight. Logger's Ledge was once amply forested, and received its name after a group of climbers logged the ledge to improve access to climbing routes, a tactic which in more ecologically sensitive times has become widely protested but back then was a popular move. The first pitch of Midway, the crux, is an often crowded, somewhat claustrophobic chimney on the right side of Jell-O Tower. Once atop Jell-O Tower, though, the mood of the route changes. Now, suddenly out of the chimney, it becomes very exposed, with a commanding, even frightening position some 400 feet above Highway 2. It is not uncommon for a party to have climbed the chimney, the hardest part of the route, only to rappel back to the security of Logger's Ledge, totally unnerved by the sudden exposure atop Jell-O Tower.

From Jell-O Tower, the infamous and highly overrated "step-across" move reaches Castle Rock proper. The move is not really difficult, but is committing, and has forced more than one timid leader to retreat. Once across, a couple of face moves lead into an alcove, from where an imposing but easy wide crack/chimney system begins. Routefinding is easy; just follow the big crack. Belay ledges are plentiful, and just as you start really enjoying the climb, it's over.

The belay from the summit of Castle Rock is fine, with your feet dangling over the edge, warmed by the autumn sun, a late afternoon breeze coming up Tumwater Canyon and nothing left to do but hike down and drive into Leavenworth for dinner and a beer. It's one of those little things that makes climbing worthwhile. Just remember to tie in, and keep hauling in the rope.


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