JAPANESE GARDENS (III, 5.11d) Index Town Walls, Washington

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Japanese Gardens

One of the earliest routes at Index Town Walls, Japanese Gardens remains one of the finest hard rock routes in the state. The original ascent party, Lowell Anderson, Dave Page and Jim Stoddard, climbed a hanging moss garden which reminded them of the famed Japanese Gardens in Seattle’s Arboretum. However, at 5.8 A2, and covered with all manner of vegetation, the route seemed an unlikely candidate for classic status except as a moderate aid route.

The cleaning crews changed that in 1984, when Terry Lien and John Nelson assured the Lower Index Town Wall’s place among the classic crags of North America with their free ascent of Japanese Gardens. The result was a clean, steep, and spectacular four-pitch 5.11d route, boasting three pitches of solid 5.11 and one of 5.10, gaining the route favorable comparison with the finest free climbs of Yosemite Valley. Further scrubbing during the early and mid 1980s yielded dozens more excellent crack and face climbs on the Lower Town Wall, which now rivals Yosemite’s Cookie Cliff for having the highest concentration of quality free climbs on a single granite crag.

Japanese Gardens’ first pitch begins with unremarkable 5.10a lieback and jam to a long, vertical flake. Jams and wide, airy layback moves lead up the big flake (5.10c), which requires some large cams for protection. At the top of the flake is a rest on a small ledge just below a little roof. Rest up, because the crux starts here. Thin, flaring 5.11 jams lead over the roof to a strenuous stemming "rest" at the lip of an overhang, followed by the crux, a fingertip layback section to the belay, which has turned back its share of talented climbers. Most climbers except the Index locals agree this route is underrated after leading or failing on the first pitch. Some have called it 5.12 by Yosemite standards. Locals scoff at the suggestion, claiming Yosemite routes are overrated. Whatever; it’s still a long, hard pitch. The next pitch is a short but very thin 5.11b fingertip layback to reach a good ledge, then up some dirty ledges to a belay. The steepest climbing is over, but it isn’t all that much easier. The next pitch climbs a 5.11a corner crack past a roof to a belay atop a pedestal. The final pitch, a steep, smooth, slabby arch and crack system, is surprisingly difficult (5.11c), and like the first pitch claims its share of victims, forcing retreat for many who venture this high.

With its steep, exposed climbing and classic, weathered cracks and flakes, Japanese Gardens has been likened to climbing Yosemite’s Nabisco Wall, and the comparison is apt. It has steep, pumping, thin, exposed climbing with plenty of variety, everything a classic should have. Even if you can’t climb it all free, it is still a worthwhile route. A clean aid move here and there along the route if you are not up to leading at this standard won’t diminish your enjoyment one bit.

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