INGALLS PEAK, SOUTH RIDGE (II, 5.6) Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Washington

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The South Ridge of Ingalls Peak

Ingalls Peak is a fairly minor summit in the southeast corner of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, relatively speaking. Although it rises to 7,662 feet elevation, and is a craggy peak jutting well above the surrounding parkland, it doesn’t seem like much of a mountain when compared to its neighbor across the way — Mount Stuart — or the other Stuart Range peaks on the far side of Ingalls Creek. Still, as mountains go, it is one of the most popular alpine rock climbs in Washington. The South Ridge route is the best route up Ingalls Peak, and not only because it is the most direct. The line commands a fine position, a slabby, multi-hued rock ridge angling skyward, split by cracks and ledges, with views down to Ingalls Lake and across to the Stuart Range.

Climbers on the South Ridge

The climb begins with a 4-mile hike to Ingalls Lake, a most scenic hike traversing a series of enchanting subalpine meadows with impressive views of Mount Stuart, then a snow and rock scramble up to the saddle between the north and south peaks of Ingalls. Just up from the saddle are the Dogtooth Spires, two small rock towers that resemble canine teeth. The route begins at the eastern base of the spires and climbs directly up the slabby ridge face. (Some climbers call the route the South Face.) Some parties rope up at the base of the spires; others scramble up the Class 3 and 4 ledges and gullies to the base of the ridge face proper, where a polished 5.2 crack angles leftward to a blocky ledge. Some easier, broken rock leads to another ledge, where the “hard” climbing begins, following thin, shallow cracks up a slippery slab. The direct route up the cracks is 5.6; an easier variation climbs up broken rock to the right. Once past the crux, a final easier pitch leads to the summit ridge, from where the summit is a short Class 3 scramble.

On the summit of Ingalls Peak

The route is quite accessible, and is a popular day trip even with Seattle climbers despite a 2-1/2 hour approach drive. The route’s accessibility is also its worst aspect, as it is one of the most crowded alpine rock routes in the Cascades. Climbers often come on weekdays thinking they will avoid the crowds, only to find three parties already on the route ahead of them. The worst part is the descent. If there are a lot of climbers on Ingalls Peak, they all seem to end up bottlenecked on the South Ridge rappel. There are other descent routes, but the South Ridge is the most direct and safest descent and, alas, sometimes the slowest.

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