CASHMERE MOUNTAIN, WEST RIDGE (I, Class 3) Wenatchee Mountains, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Washington

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Cashmere Mountain

Cashmere Mountain is a great pyramidal peak rising up from the depths of Icicle Creek Canyon about ten miles west of Leavenworth. It is one of the most prominent peaks of the Cascades' eastern front range, easily seen as you drive westward on US Highway 2 from Wenatchee. It is prominently visible from the town of Cashmere, hence its name. It is a fairly popular climb, mostly due to its outstanding relief, close proximity to Leavenworth, and easy accessibility via a popular hiking trail leading to within 1.5 miles and 1,300 vertical feet of its summit. At 8,501 feet elevation, it rivals the nearby Stuart Range peaks in elevation and views. Although the trail is a bit long for casual scramblers, and climbers tend to have their sights set on the more rugged peaks of the Stuart Range, Cashmere Mountain is still an enjoyable and worthwhile climb. It is a long day climb, but is reasonable with a base camp at one of the lakes along the approach trail. Summit views are outstanding, including a close view of the northern rampart of the Stuart Range.

Mountaineers party on Cashmere Mountain

The route begins with a hike up Eightmile Lake and Caroline Lake trails, best done very early in the morning or late in the afternoon to beat the heat. Those making an overnight trip of it should find campsites at one of the Caroline Lakes, but remember to get a permit! Continue hiking up to 7,200-foot Windy Pass, 6.9 miles up the trail. The upper part of the hike, from just below Caroline Lake to Windy Pass, is through lovely subalpine meadows, with increasing views back to the Stuart Range peaks. From the pass, a climbers' trail continues northward along the rocky ridge, and eventually peters out, leaving you to figure out the best route across the talus and grass slopes. Assuming you manage, you end up at a 7,990-foot saddle directly below the summit rocks, from where a boot path wanders up and left. Scramble up and left, skirting around to the left side of the first gendarme, then along the ridge or just south, and up a gully to the summit block. The route is exposed in a few places, but routefinding isn't too difficult if you follow the path of least resistance. Getting off route may result in some loose Class 5 moves. If the going gets tough, you are probably off route.

Beckey's guide reports a route via the south ridge. The Windy Pass route is just as fast, offers better views, and avoids trampling the lovely meadows. There is a variation that skirts around the north side from the saddle, and up a steep snow or scree gully to the summit block notch.


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