ARIES (I, 5.8+) Index Town Walls, Washington

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Aries Dihedral (5.8), circa 1977

Aries is an odd little route. Although only 120 feet long, it is usually climbed in four pitches, each 5.8 in difficulty but otherwise vastly different. The route's variety is one of its attractions. To climb Aries (or "The Lizard" as originally called), one must be at least marginally proficient in finger and fist jamming and chimney technique. Each pitch is a prototypical Yosemite classic in miniature, making this one of the most popular routes at Index, although due to the chimney the route is rarely climbed in its entirety.

The route begins with a short, awkward, offset, exfoliated off-hand and fist crack with a couple of 5.8 moves to reach a ledge. For many climbers, this pitch is a rude introduction to crack climbing. The second pitch climbs a clean, thin corner crack, barely longer than the first pitch, lamentably so since a full pitch of such continuous, thin jamming would make the pitch one of the best 5.8 leads on the west coast. Short as it is, one is hard pressed to find a rival. Atop the dihedral is the feared chimney, a short, flaring slot that most climbers avoid by climbing around it via a 5.6 variation on the left or a 5.11b arete on the right. Large cams will protect it, but the chimney is less awkward if you stay out where it is wider. Once past the chimney, a final short pitch of underclings leads left out an overhang and up cracks to the Great Northern Slab anchors. Once here, the route is officially done, although it's worthwhile to climb a final 5.7 pitch up the slab or arete to the top of the Great Northern Slab.

For those who enjoy the 5.8 dihedral pitch, consider this: If you climb it 100 times in a row, it's the same as climbing El Capitan. Well, not quite, but . . . It's a great little pitch, so if it isn't long enough for you, just climb it over and over and over until somebody asks if they can climb through.

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