15.	SAHALE PEAK
	Elevation:	8,700 feet/2652 meters.
	Rating:	Class 4, Grade I glacier.
	Distance:	About 14 miles round trip.
	Elevation Gain:	About 5,100 feet from trailhead to summit.
	Time:	About 5-7 hours from trailhead to summit.
	Maps:	USGS Cascade Pass; Green Trails No. 80 (Cascade Pass).

About the Climb

Sahale Peak, photo by Bob Bolton

Sahale Peak (officially Sahale Mountain per the US Geological Survey), is the sharply pointed peak rising immediately north of Cascade Pass. It is an attractive peak, and an accessible and relatively simple climb, with remarkable panoramic views. The summit is a sharp rock peak. Sahale is a popular climb, largely because of its relatively easy access compared to other Cascade Pass area summits, and also because of its central location and views. From the summit, you get a grand view of the Cascade Pass peaks—Johanesburg Mountain, Cascade Peak, The Triplets, Mix-up Peak, Magic Mountain, Pelton Peak, Buckner Mountain, Boston Peak, Forbidden Peak, Eldorado Peak, and Hidden Lakes Peak—and many summits in the near and far distance, including Snowking Mountain, Mounts Logan and Goode, MacGregor Mountain, Mounts Baker, Shuksan and Rainier, Glacier Peak, the Monte Cristo Peaks, and an incredible view down the Shehekin River Valley all the way to the northern tip of Lake Chelan. Although Sahale Peak is regarded by many climbers as an easy climb, the final rock scramble to the summit is fairly rugged and exposed, with a few moves that may cause even experienced climbers a moment’s pause. On a clear, dry day, the summit climb is enjoyable and airy, but if the rock is wet, icy, or snow covered, or visibility is poor, it is a more serious climb. Many climbers have stopped short of the summit, unwilling to climb the final pitch unroped.

How to Get There

This climb begins from Cascade Pass trailhead at the end of Cascade River Road. Drive the North Cascades Highway (SR-20) to Marblemount. If you are camping overnight, register at the Marblemount Ranger Station. Follow Cascade River Road (FS-15) east about 23 miles to the Cascade Pass trailhead at road's end. The last bit of the road is paved, a big improvement over the rough road that used to force many hikers and climbers to park much lower hike to the trailhead. In early season, though, the last 2 miles of the road may be gated. This is a very popular trailhead, so expect crowds. A Northwest Forest Pass is required.

Route Description

[TOPO OF SAHALE PEAK ROUTE]
[SUMMIT DETAIL TOPO]


The popular route up Sahale Peak is via the Sahale Arm and Sahale Glacier. This route is reasonably done in a day, or with a camp at Sahale Glacier.

Hike Cascade Pass Trail about 3.7 miles to Cascade Pass, elevation 5,392 feet. Cross over the pass, dropping down briefly to the Sahale Arm Trail junction, then hike north up Sahale Arm about 1.9 miles to the terminus of Sahale Glacier, elevation ~7,700 feet. The trail degenerates near the end, and may be difficult to follow. If the trail is lost, just climb up through the moraine rubble and snow to the top of the moraine. Sahale Glacier Camp is officially the highest developed campsite in North Cascades National Park. There are several bivy sites here, with rock windbreaks, and a pit toilet west of the campsite, on the moraine ridge. Camping is allowed only above the second moraine ridge, at the foot of the glacier. Camping is not allowed anywhere on Sahale Arm. The Sahale Glacier camp is one of the longest and most arduous advance base camps in the Cascades. Since the climb can be done in a day, most opt to climb light instead of carrying a heavy pack up to the glacier camp.

From the moraine, ascend the glacier directly, staying on the west side higher up to avoid a mid-level crevasse, and continue directly up the steep firn slopes to the base of the summit rocks. A short "scramble" up the summit rocks completes the ascent. There are three commonly used routes. The standard route is on the right side of the south face, scrambling rightward up slabby rock nearly to the southern ridge line, then leftward to an alcove, and up a short Class 4-5 step to the summit. The blocky west ridge is straightforward ridge scrambling with a short, exposed Class 4 section if you pick your route carefully among the big blocks, which seem precariously perched. There is also a Class 4 route skirting the summit rocks rightward around the north side of the summit rocks and up the NE ridge.

To descend from the summit, either downclimb or rappel from the summit block. Rappel down to the alcove, then again down to the base of the summit rocks. Two single rope rappels suffice. Bring a couple of long slings to back up or replace the old slings tied around the summit block.

Options

Another popular route up Sahale Peak climbs the west side via Quien Sabe Glacier. It is more challenging, and a bit longer, and thus not as popular as the Sahale Glacier route, although it is climbed fairly often. Approach via the Boston Basin route to Quien Sabe Glacier (see Forbidden Peak chapter for approach details), or traverse leftward across heather and scree slopes from the ~6,500-foot level on Sahale Arm. Rope up and cross the glacier, ascending to the obvious Boston-Sahale Col. The glacier is gentler on its far left side, more challenging if you climb it directly. From the col, follow the ridge rightward and up to the summit. The initial part of the ridge is moderately exposed snow or easy rock scrambling. The ridge levels out, then ascends more steeply to the summit. The final portion of the ridge is mixed snow and rock with increasing exposure, especially on the final short rock climb to the summit. Class 4-5, about 8 hours to summit. Most parties make an overnight climb, bivouacking below the glacier.

The USGS survey marker on the summit mistakenly identifies the mountain as Boston Peak. An ascent of 8,894-foot Boston Peak can be combined with Sahale Peak via the Sahale-Boston Col and a short, difficult rock climb (loose Class 4). Boston Peak has a reputation for loose rock, and consequently few people climb it. Refer to Cascade Alpine Guide for route details.

Precautions

The upper moraine slopes and glacier are avalanche prone. Although mild as glaciers go, the Sahale Glacier is crevassed, and roping up is recommended, although many climbers don’t bother since there's usually just one visible crevasse that can be easily avoided. The Quien Sabe Glacier is heavily crevassed; definitely rope up. In early season, cornices form on the upper ridge. The summit peak is sharp and exposed, with room for only a few climbers at a time. The summit scramble is mostly easy, but has loose blocks and some downsloping rock, and is exposed Class 3 climbing with a couple of Class 4 moves. Many climbers feel there are low Class 5 moves on the summit climb. Most climbers complete the climb unroped, but many balk at the prospect of soloing the last 100 feet to the summit. Definitely belay if the summit rocks are wet or icy. Bring a rope, a small rack up to 2 inches, and some slings, just in case. Helmet, ice ax and crampons recommended.

Remember to get a permit at the Sedro Woolley or Marblemount Ranger Station if making an overnight climb. Camping is not permitted on Sahale Arm, only at the Sahale Glacier Camp. If the need arises, please use the trailhead toilet or the toilet at Sahale Glacier Camp. The Sahale Arm Trail is suffering abuse from hikers and climbers. Too many side trails are being cut to avoid snow and mud. Please stay on the trail as much as possible. When necessary to leave the trail, spread out, and walk on snow or bare rock as much as possible to avoid trampling the meadows.

References

Cascade Alpine Guide.
Hiking the North Cascades.
Selected Climbs in the Cascades.

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